Amigurumi Chris Mouse Free Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi Followers
Today we share one free amigurumi crochet pattern again for you. As you know we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. The main crochets are amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi llama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunny, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi lambs, amigurumi bees, amigurumi unicorns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi foxes, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi dinosaurs, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more …
Todays daily new amigurumi free crochet pattern is Amigurumi Chris Mouse.
I want to give you some informations about this pattern ;

Materials:
Catania yarn:
1 ball white, 105 or 106 which is natural or white, I used 105
1 ball red, I think I used 115 signal red
a small amount of black (110) and gold (249) (or any colour for the gift)
and a scrap of another colour to tie around the gift.
2.5mm crochet hook
Large-eye needle (or smaller hook) to finish the ends (pull through inside) and sew up.
Stuffing, pair of 8 or 9mm safety eyes, and 6 or 7mm safety nose – or embroider it with
a scrap of black yarn.

Size: About 9cm (3 ¾”) tall. Not including the ears or the hat.
Tension: Not important, but try not to be too loose or the stuffing will show.
Abbreviations:
dc – double crochet, (what the US calls sc)
dec – decrease, work two stitches together, dc two together (US, sc two together). Either
pull one loop through each of the next two stitches so you have three loops on the hook
and then finish them off together, or do an invisible decrease.
ch – chain.

Method:
Muzzle:
Make this first, you need it to help place the eyes when making the head. White.
Row 1: 6 dc into a magic ring.
Row 2: (1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 3 (9)
Row 3: dc into each dc (9)
Row 4: (2dc, 2dc in next dc) x 3 (12)
Row 5: dc into each dc (12)
Row 6: (1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (18)
Row 7: dc into each dc (18)
Pull thread through, leaving a long end to sew the muzzle onto the head. Put the nose, if you are using one, into the hole of the original magic ring. I found that the back of my nose-piece fitted better into this muzzle with the narrower part at the front – I usually use the wider part first for both eyes and noses, but that would flatten the front of this
shape. I didn’t need to stuff this, as my crochet is stiff enough, but of course you can if you want to do so.

Head:
Row 1: 6 dc into a magic ring.
Row 2: 2dc into each dc (12 stitches)
Row 3: (1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (18)
Row 4: (2 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (24)
Row 5: (3 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (30)
Row 6: (4 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (36)
Row 7: (5 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (42)
Row 8: (6 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (48)
Rows 9-15: 1dc in each dc to end (48) – that’s 6 rows without shaping.
Row 16: (6 dc, dec) x 6 (42)
Row 17: (5 dc, dec) x 6 (36)
Row 18: (4 dc, dec) x 6 (30)
Row 19: (3 dc, dec) x 6 (24)
Row 20: (2 dc, dec) x 6 (18)
Place the muzzle so that it sits between row 11 and row 18 and sew it in place. Put the safety eyes in just above and ither side of it as shown, between rows 12 and 13 about 6 stitches apart – but actually wherever looks good to you once you have placed the muzzle.
Stuff the head.
Row 21: (1 dc, dec) x 6 (12)
Row 22: (dec) x 6 (6)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing to the body – or you can leave the end on the body instead. No need to pull the stitches tight, but you can if you like.

Ears:
White. Make two. If you are planning to
stitch the hat to the head, you can just
make one ear, but my Chris has both.
Row 1: 6 dc into a magic ring.
Row 2: 2dc into each dc (12 stitches)
Row 3: (1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (18)
Row 4: dc into each dc (18)
Row 5: (2 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (24)
Row 6: dc into each dc (24)
Row 7: (2 dc, dec) x 6 (18)
Row 8: (1 dc, dec) x 6 (12)
Leave a tail to sew on, make another one. Squash flat, and fold just a little bit in the middle. Stitch to the head between about the 6th and 10th rows, just about half way back – see pictures – but really put them wherever they look good to you.

Parcel:
Gold (or any colour), working back and forth in rows:
Row 1: Ch 6, dc in second ch from hook, 4 dc back along the chain. (5)
Row 2-5: ch 1, dc in each dc to end (5) – that’s 4 more rows.
Row 6: dc in BACK LOOP of each dc to end. (5) – this makes it a place to bend.
Row 6-11: ch 1, dc in each dc to end (5) – that’s 5 more rows.
Row 12: dc in BACK LOOP of each dc to end. (5) – another place to bend.
Row 13-17: ch 1, dc in each dc to end (5) – that’s 4 more rows.
Leave an end to sew up, and make another. Fold them at the back loop rows into squared-off C shapes, and fit them into each other so that the start and end rows fit against the opposite sides of the middle section of the other piece (the 6-11 row bit). Stitch up, adding a little stuffing before you close the last side, but not enough to spoil the cube shape. Tie a scrap of another colour, doubled if you like, around the parcel with a bow.

Body:
Row 1: Red. 6 dc into a magic ring.
Row 2: 2dc into each dc (12)
Row 3: (1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (18)
Row 4: (2 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (24)
Row 5: (3 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (30)
Row 6: (4 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (36)
Rows 7-8: dc into each dc (36) – that’s 2 rows straight. Change to black in the last loop of the last stitch.
Rows 9-10: dc into each dc (36) – that’s 2 more rows straight. Change to red in the last loop of the last stitch.
Rows 11-12: dc into each dc (36) – that’s 2 more rows straight.
Row 13: (4 dc, dec) x 6 (30)
Row 14: dc into each dc (30)
Row 15: (3 dc, dec) x 6 (24)
Row 16: dc into each dc (24)
Leave a long end, stuff and sew to the head around the 19th row (which also has 24 stitches, so you can sew stitch to stitch if you like). Don’t overstuff, or the base will be too round for mouse to sit neatly without falling over all the time. Add a square of gold stitches to the front of the black ‘belt’ in the middle to look like a buckle – see pictures

Tail:
Row 1: Starting with white, 3 dc into a magic ring.
Rows 2: dc, 2dc in next dc, dc (4 stitches).
Rows 3-13: dc into each dc (4 stitches) – that’s 11 rows without shaping. Change to red in the last loop of the last stitch.
Rows 14-16: dc into each dc (4 stitches) – that’s 3 rows without shaping.
It’s a bit fiddly! Do make it longer if you like, mice can have very long tails, I couldn’t be bothered.
Leave an end for sewing. Flatten the very end where you finished, and stitch just that row to the back of the mouse, around row 6 of the body.

Front Paws:
Row 1: 6 dc into a magic ring.
Row 2: (1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 3 (9)
Row 3: dc in each dc to end (9), change to red in last loop of last stitch.
Rows 4-6: dc in each dc to end (9) – that’s 3 rows.
Leave an end for sewing, make a second one, stitch to body either side of where the nose droops between about rows 12 and 15, 5 stitches visible between them – or however you think is good. Mine is supposed to be holding his paws out for a hug.

Back Paws:
Row 1: Black. 6 dc into a magic ring.
Row 2: (1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 3 (9)
Row 3: dc in each dc to end (9), change to red in last loop of last stitch.
Rows 4-5: dc in each dc to end (9) – that’s 2 rows.
Leave an end for sewing, make a second one, stitch them to the body between rows 4 and 7 right at the bottom of the front with only one stitch or so showing between them – but maybe pin it first, to be sure your mouse can ‘sit’ neatly – remember you have a tail at the back to place too.

More Amigurumi Mouse Ideas:

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