Amigurumi Baby Whale Free Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi Followers
Today we share one free amigurumi crochet pattern again for you. As you know we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. The main crochets are amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi llama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunny, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi lambs, amigurumi bees, amigurumi unicorns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi foxes, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi dinosaurs, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more …
Todays daily new amigurumi free crochet pattern is Amigurumi Baby Whale.
I want to give you some informations about this pattern ;


– 2.5mm crochet hook
– Yarn:
* Scheepjes Stone Washed 805 Blue Apatite
* DMC Cotton Perle N°8 shade 310 (black) to embroider the mouth
* DMC Happy Cotton: shades #794 (mustard yellow) and #761 (off-white) for the crown and the belly. This yarn is a #3 /DK-light 100% cotton, and I use the 2.5mm hook.
– Tapestry needle
– Fiberfill
– Stitch marker or a strand of thinner yarn
– A pair of 8mm safety eyes
– Ball point pins for assembly



With the above material: 5-round circle = 5cm (2″).
With the material mentioned above and when gauge is achieved:
– The whale is 12cm long (4.7″) and 6cm high without the crown (2.3″)
– The crown is 2cm high (0.8″)


– The number before the abbreviation represents how many times to work one type of stitch into consecutive stitches from the previous round (unless stated otherwise). Ex: 3inc = work one increase into each of the next 3 stitches.
– This pattern is worked in continuous spiral rounds (i.e. without closing the rounds with a slip stitch) unless stated otherwise. It may help to mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker.
– For amigurumi in general, I always use an invisible decrease (unless stated otherwise) to minimize the gaps between these stitches so that the fiberfill doesn’t show too much. You can check this simple technique in a video tutorial here, but if it’s too much hassle and you prefer to start right away you can also work with normal decrease, no big deal!


st: stitch/es
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
inc: single crochet increase (work 2 sc into the same st)
dec: single crochet decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
[number]: total number of stitches of the round
Rnd: round
(…) x 2: repeat whatever is in between the parenthesis the number of times indicated


With blue yarn.
Rnd 1: work 6sc into a magic ring. [6]
Rnd 2: 6inc. [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. [18]
Rnd 4: (2sc, inc) x 6. [24]
Rnd 5: (3sc, inc) x 6. [30]
Rnd 6: sc around. [30]
Rnd 7: (4sc, inc) x 6. [36]
Rnd 8: sc around. [36]
Rnd 9: (5sc, inc) x 6. [42]
Rnd 10 – 12: (mark the first stitch of round 10 with a stitch marker or a strand of thinner yarn, it will help you to place the eyes later on) sc around. [42]
Rnd 13: (5sc, dec) x 6. [36]
Rnd 14: sc around. [36]
Rnd 15: (4sc, dec) x 6. [30]
Rnd 16: 2dec, 22sc, 2dec. [26]
Insert one safety eye between round 10 and 11, 9 stitches after the first stitch of round 10. Insert the second safety eye on the other side, also between round 10 and 11, 11 stitches before the last stitch of round 10.


With off-white yarn.
Rnd 1: Work 6sc into a magic ring. [6]
Rnd 2: inc in each. [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. [18]
Rnd 4: (2sc, inc) x 6. [24]
Rnd 5: (3sc, inc) x 6. [30]
Rnd 6: (2sc, inc, 2sc) x 6. [36]

The next part of the belly is worked in rows with a turning chain at the end of each row, this chain doesn’t count as a stitch. Since we are working in rows, the decreases are standard decreases (and not invisible decreases).

The red thread of yarn on the pictures indicates the first stitch of row 7: as you can notice, row 8 goes 1 stitch beyond this stitch marker.

Row 7: 7sc, chain 1, turn. [7]
Row 8: dec, 6sc, chain 1, turn. [7]
Row 9: dec, 5 sc, chain 1, turn. [6]
Row 10: dec, 4sc, chain 1, turn. [5]
Row 11: dec, 3sc, chain 1, turn. [4]
Row 12: dec, 2sc, chain 1, turn. [3]
Row 13: dec, sc, chain 1, turn. [2]
Row 14 – 19: 2sc, chain 1, turn. [2]
Row 20: dec. [1]
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing to the body (twice the perimeter of the belly).


The tail is formed by two fins sewn together.
Rnd 1: Work 4sc into a magic ring. [4]
Rnd 2: 4sc. [4]
Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x 2. [6]
Rnd 4: (inc, sc) x 3. [9]
Rnd 5 – 6 : sc around. [9]
Rnd 7: (dec, sc) x 3. [6]
Rnd 8: (dec, sc) x 2. [4]
Fasten off, don’t stuff, flatten, and leave a tail. Make a second one. You’ll use one yarn end to sew the two fins together, and the second one to sew to the body.

Assemble the two fins together to shape the tail.

THE FINS (make 2)

Rnd 1: Work 4sc into a magic ring. [4]
Rnd 2: 4sc. [4]
Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x 2. [6]
Rnd 4: (inc, sc) x 3. [9]
Rnd 5 – 6: sc around. [9]
Rnd 7: (dec, sc) x 3. [6]
Fasten off, don’t stuff, and leave a tail for sewing to the body. Make a second one.


Make a slip knot. Chain 10. Slip stitch to the first chain to join.

Row 1: sc in each st around (start in the next available stitch and make the last sc in the sl st). [10]
Row 2: (sl st, chain 3, sl st in 2nd chain from the hook, sc in the next chain, sl st in next available stitch) x 5.

At the end of this row you should have a 5 pointed crown.
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Thread your tapestry needle with the tail, and insert it under the back loop of the next stitch, then weave it on the inside of the crown, and use it to sew the crown to the body after you’ve pinned it in place.


Before starting sewing, I strongly recommend to pin all pieces together to have a first view of the final result. It’s quite hard to estimate where one piece should go when the other ones are not yet assembled. It’s a bit messy because all the tails of the different parts will be hanging, but it might save you disappointment and frustration: once a piece is sewn, it’s difficult to unstitch if you find it too low or to high.

Be careful not to prick yourself with the pins as the pins might go through or be just under the surface. When you start sewing, you can remove the other pieces, and you’ll pin them back at the right place easily later, now that you’ve seen where everything should go.

1- Sew the tail to the body.
2- Sew the belly to the body: position the white round part after round 3 of the body, and approximately 3-4 stitches away from the eyes on each side.
3- Sew the fins to the body: make them flat, and the front of the fins should be sewn between round 12 and 13 of the body (so 2 rounds behind the eyes), approximately one row above the belly.
4- Sew the crown to the head, I like it slightly leaning on one side but it’s up to you!
5- Embroider the mouth between round 3 and 4, with a lenght of approximately 6 stitches of round 3 (but that’s really up to your liking!)

And you’re done! Congratulations!

More Amigurumi Whale Ideas:

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